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How To Change A Motion Sensor Light To Regular Light

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how to fool a motion sensing lighting command

  • Thread starter dpetty
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  • #one
I am in need of a circuit to "fool" a motion sensing lighting control. I have a motion sensing lighting command in my office which unfortunately is behind a bookshelf and so I accept to get upwards every 20-thirty minutes and trip it to plough my lights dorsum on. Neither the shelf or the command is likely to be moved. There is no manual over-ride on the command unless you take off the embrace and ready a DIP switch which I don't want to do for several reasons.

The sensor is not triggered by LEDs or a modest flashlight waving near by. Mirrors don't seem to reverberate enough IR to get around the bookshelf. I have been able to "fool" the sensor with 2 120V nighttime light bulbs mounted about 6" apart and a manual switch to toggle dorsum and forth between the bulbs to similate a moving IR source, but it'south very cludgy and cumbersome and uses a lot of energy by itself.

Does anyone have any proficient ideas for fooling this sensor? Maybe a depression power compact excursion or some other trick?

Thank you!

specs for the command are at:
http://greengate.coopercontrol.com/specfiles/pdf/greengate/OSW-P 120_277V Spec Sheet_Web.pdf

Sceadwian
  • #2
This hack isn't just ugly it goes confronting basic engineering, keep it stupid unproblematic =) That being said the appropriate action is to accept the sensor removed or bypassed past whomever takes intendance of the building where you work, it would be a good show of your persistence to notice the right person to talk to get what you want done rather than rig a circuit for this. THAT being said =)

Did you employ IR leds or regular LEDs? Because regular LEDS won't come even shut to IR. IR leds MIGHT exist close enough merely it depends on the sensors really response. Why don't you just glimmer a single nighttime light bulb one time every few seconds? There should exist no reason to utilise ii, the unmarried pulsing should be recognized as moving. What I mean by that is you lot would employ a simple timer excursion to turn the nightlight bulb on over one second every 5 minutes, that should easily keep the light from every going off. Why low power? Night light bulbs aren't exactly power hogs.

Attempt using a remote command, from ANY type of device. With the window of the IR remote pointed directly at the sensor window wait till the lights go out and without triggering it with your mitt push a push with the remote, the pulsing from a close upwards IR remote will definitely fix if off IF it's sensitive to that range. If that works so you take function of the solution, you only demand a few IR LED's and depression ability timer with a switch, blink the LED'due south briefly every v-10-15 minutes (whatever keeps the lights from going off) If you chose the proper timer you could probably use a smaller battery pack that would last months, if wall power is available the typical wasted current of a wallwart will likely be college than the circuit itself.

And so, provide some more information and I'd gladly assist with it's design and structure.

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Externet
  • #3
Put a fan nearby the sensor ? Or a mirror to requite it 'visual' field ?
Sceadwian
  • #4
Externet. These sensors crave movement, a signal that was in that location earlier that is not at present and then comes back again repeated endlessly. Fans will not work the frequency is likewise high, they have lower limits on the motion sensing to avoid some animals peaking in and out or other false triggers. A mirror will only provide a static reflection.
Mikebits
  • #five
I had this same problem in an office I worked in, I would take to practice the hokey poky every time my lights would become out (Sure it was fun, but got erstwhile). I called maintenance and they fixed the trouble. There are settings inside the sensor box you lot can change.
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Sceadwian
  • #vi
While he didn't listing the reasons...
There is no manual over-ride on the control unless you take off the encompass and set a DIP switch which I don't want to do for several reasons.

Which is why he should practise the same because yous already had the folks in charge at your place do what you wanted =)
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  • #8
Thanks everyone for your comments, nudges and humor.

Sceadwian: 1) my daughter suggested moving a few books and cut a pigsty in the dorsum of the shelf - now that's Osculation, but I'yard an electronics guy, not a hole saw guy.
2) Regarding reasons: my "extra" bookcase is unauthorized and I don't want to lose information technology my making waves - I'm chair of the Ecology Committee and disabling the auto shutoff and risking the calorie-free being left on by housekeeping is politically unacceptable :>) iii) I'll try the IR LED road, I didn't really consider the wavelength of the LEDs I was testing with. Rather apply LEDs so I can just mount a battery powered box on the dorsum of the bookshelf rather than run a cord, use more power, draw more attending to my unauthorized bookshelf :>) 4) even with an incandescent bulb, blinking is not enough with this sensor. It appears to need IR "motion" which seems to be satisfied with 2 alternating lights. Office of my challenge has been trying to understand the sensor as demonstrated by failure of my early experiments (mirror to reflect my occasionally moving image, inanimate object waving or fluttering, LEDs weak or wrong wavelength, unmarried incandescent seedling, etc.)

Externet: in transmission mode the light stays on forever. We've actually resorted to this in some of our classrooms, but then folks forget to turn off the lights. The nicer sensors I've seen in other buildings let the user to switch to manual way from a switch on the front "panel". A pendulum clock with a live mouse attached would probably work, merely and so I'd take to change the mouse every few days.

I'll try the IR LED affair and become back to you all if I demand whatsoever more assistance (or sarcasm :>) thanks!

Sceadwian
  • #nine
dpetty... Think most this for a second... You're going to create this elaborate device that volition permit the lights to stay on, which in itself requires a switch to stay on... If you forget to turn the device off when you exit the room the lights are going to stay on anyways, EXACTLY the aforementioned as if you'd forgotten to turn the light switch off.. Disable the motion sensor and you lot've got the solution with the same outcome without all the extra hubbub. Automatic lights don't brand good environmental sense if the people in the rooms can't part! Every bit far every bit being environmentally responsible consider the wasted time effort and energy that'due south already gone into this entire work effectually plan. I'chiliad sorry but as a logical person I take to say that the electric current approach doesn't make any kind of sense to me.
  • #ten
yet tin can't trigger the motion sensor

I had a piffling time to work on this the other solar day, but haven't made whatever existent progress. Now the challenge of actually making it work is getting to exist more of import than really controlling the lights! I tried using two dissimilar remote controls to trigger the sensor, with no luck. Fortunately a low-cal on the sensor blinks when it's been triggered so I tin tell immediately. I also built upwardly a circuit using a LM556 dual timer and a couple Radio Shack 276-0143 "High-Output 5mm Infrared LED" s, trying various LED currents, timing cycles, distances, spacing between the two LEDs etc, with no luck. I know the LEDs come on because I can see them when viewed thru my digital camera. There must be something nigh this sensor that "knows" the divergence betwixt a moving warm trunk and a moving or blinking IR LED.

crutschow
  • #11
The sensor probable is sensitive to IR much longer in wavelength than the 0.9 micron a typical IR LED generates (they basically sense estrus radiation, such every bit from a warm human trunk where the radiations peaks at around 10 microns wavelength) and then information technology should be sensitive to an incandescent seedling operating at a low voltage (so the filament is just barely glowing). That would besides significantly reduce the ability consumption of the bulb. I suspect two such alternating bulbs would trigger the sensor or mayhap just one turning on and off.
  • #12
Buy i of those dancing flowers that are powered past solar. I assume if you have motion lights in an part, you lot take florescent bulbs which will brand the blossom get back and forth. Place information technology in front of the motion detector while you're there and move once yous leave. I accept the same problem except our movement sensor is on the ceiling with no transmission switch at all. I'm backside a cubicle so the lights turn off on me also. I'thousand going to try the bloom idea also.
  • #13
2010 thread revival only i'll throw in my .02 cents

oscillating heater. motility and estrus.

wonder if OP came up with annihilation

  • #15
I can't go my head effectually the "Chair of an Environmental Commission" is not allowed to take an extra bookcase.
  • #16
The motion sensor has a lens on front of it that sets upwardly 'fields', and the IR source has to move from one field to the adjacent.
  • #17
I see you solved your problem but wanted to postal service this for people searching for solutions, equally I was when I came across this post.
I was being driven mad by the move sensor in the teacher work room at my school. There is a "privacy" wall in between the light switch/sensor and where teachers really piece of work...groan!! I could have asked for assistance from maintenance just it probably would never get taken care of or mayhap someone would come up 2 days earlier school is out and they wouldn't be able to change it because of some regulation. Then I got my screwdriver out, removed the face plate and found the model number and brand of the switch. It took 30 seconds to detect the installation instructions online. I changed the settings and voila, problem solved. I anonymously postal service-information technology-ed that the motion sensor had been disabled and put reminders on the door to plow off the low-cal when you leave the room. Everyone is happier, no fancy devices required.
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Source: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/how-to-fool-a-motion-sensing-lighting-control.108640/

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